Skin Care

Common skin myths about facial cleansing

The gentle cleanser market is a huge growth sector.
There are 2 cleanser categories:

• Water based cleansers (Foaming and Non foaming)
• Oil cleansers

There are many water based cleansers available. However, not all are created equal. I recommend a foaming cleanser for more acne prone skin and a non-foaming lotion cleanser (lower level of surfactant) for dry or sensitive skin. The optimal pH for a cleanser is around 5.6 (slightly acidic). Alkaline cleansers are generally irritating to skin. Glycerin should also be included to a good cleanser formula as a gentle hydrating agent.
When choosing a cleanser it is important to avoid the addition of sodium laureth sulphate (SLS). This ingredient is a known irritant in the skin care industry. Artificial fragrance can also cause skin irritation and allergy so it is best to use unscented or essential oil scented products.
The safest cleansers are now made of milder foaming agents. Examples of gentle foaming agents include:

• Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate
• Soduim Cocoyl Isethionate
• Cocoamidopropyl Betaine
• Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate

There are major concerns regarding the effects of using soap on the skin which often results in irritation, itching and dryness. Soaps are generally harsh and not to be used on the facial skin. A good facial cleanser must be mild and not disrupt the natural barrier function of the skin. Soaps are created by reacting oil with an alkali (base). They are effective at stripping oil, dirt and impurities, but often result in skin irritation. Soaps are usually very alkaline (pH over 9.0) and this also disrupts the natural acid mantle of the skin resulting in irritation and dryness.
There is also a common fad in the cosmetic industry known as ‘OIL CLEANSING’. This is a beauty myth. It is based on the premise that ‘oil dissolves oil’ and therefore removes oil associated with acne, blemishes and congestion. It is a false assumption that congested and blemished skin involves oil on the skin’s surface. The oils associated with acne and congested skin are very complex and involves processes deep below the skin surface. It is a combination of imbalanced hormones, inflammation, dead cells deep in the pores and excess acne bacteria causing infection. Oil cleansers will NOT address this problem. Furthermore, a fine layer of oil on the surface of the skin will prevent penetration of your important water-based serums (oil and water do not mix). Facial Oils and moisturisers containing oil should be the final step in your skin care routine and NOT the initial step. Cleansing skin with oil is not a new cleansing method and as with many fads, this will pass. I believe oil is great for removing waterproof mascara but I would definitely not recommend it for a deep facial cleanse.
Beware also of companies making claims on adding active ingredients in their cleansers, such as AHA/BHA exfoliants, vitamins and antioxidants. Cleansers are only in contact with the face for an average of twenty seconds and then are simply washed down the drain! There is very little time for active ingredients to work on the deeper layers of the skin if they are washed off in a few seconds. Provided the cleanser removes excess surface oil and dirt without stripping the skin or disrupting the natural pH level, then it has done its job.
I recommend that you purchase a good water-based cleanser (foaming or lotion based) that is free of potentially irritating additives. Cleansing is an essential part of your skin routine but it is only the preparation. You need a clean canvas before you add your active ingredients that truly make a difference.